Detroit Via Nove, 344 W. Nine Mile, Ferndale, 248-336-9936; Italian. "Meals here begin with delicious, warm focaccia, brushed with olive oil and dotted with halves of grape tomatoes made soft and sweeter by the heat of the oven. A saucer of extra-virgin olive oil surrounding a pool of fresh tomato sauce is provided for dipping and, with a glass of wine, the flavors are so satisfying the bread could almost be a meal. The appetizers are quite appealing — I liked the trio of bruschettas and the puff pastry with wild mushrooms — but the pastas are so good, you really must not miss them. Consider, then, sharing a pasta as a starter instead of ordering an appetizer, so you can also have a seafood or meat entree....Via Nove's 13 meat and seafood entrees are made especially tempting by the thoughtfully chosen vegetables, starches, sauces and garnishes that accompany them. The lightly breaded sole is served with stewed Swiss chard, cannelloni beans and julienned vegetables, for example, the grilled salmon with fried risotto cakes and sauteed zucchini." Entrees: $16-$24. -— Sylvia Rector, Detroit Free Press